Customer:
I’ve been programming my Inkplate 6 and it works well, but when I plug in a battery it keeps rebooting. According to issue #56 (Unexpected behavior under battery only · Issue #56 · SolderedElectronics/Inkplate-Arduino-library · GitHub), this appears to be caused by a faulty PCB on older revisions. I’m looking for guidance on how to fix this.
Attachment omitted in migration: Inkplate6_order_confirmation.pdf
Originally submitted via email support on 18 January 2022. Migrated to the forum for community visibility.
Soldered Support:
The warranty for the device is one year. You can try soldering an additional capacitor of 2.2uF on your own. If you need additional explanation on which capacitor to solder, feel free to ask.
Customer:
Thank you for the response. I have a question about the capacitor: The specifications I found are 2.2 μF minimum 6 V. Since I don’t have a voltage meter at hand, I’d like to know about the polarity. Is the minus pole on the right-hand or left-hand side? (If the GPIO-Pins are on the bottom side)
Soldered Support:
You can use a capacitor of 2.2uF, and it must be at least 6V or higher. On the board there is a ceramic capacitor of 100nF and you can solder in parallel with this old capacitor. For that capacitor polarity does not matter because it is unpolarized. You can use a capacitor like (Access to this page has been denied.) or you can use a THT capacitor like (Access to this page has been denied.). Also if you have a ceramic capacitor with a value around 2.2uF you can use it for that purpose.
Customer:
Thank you for the recommendations. Unfortunately I don’t feel confident enough to solder an SMD capacitor. Due to availability in my region, I’m inclined to use a tantalum capacitor which is polarized. My question is about polarity - is this a good idea? I have almost no experience in this domain.
Soldered Support:
It’s best to use an MLCC non-polarised capacitor. If you tell me which store you have access to, I can find a compatible capacitor there for you. You can also solder a THT capacitor to the SMD one - it is even easier, as shown in this photo: https://camo.githubusercontent.com/c8c5187e12f00362f9be626d0a01a585da0eec4/e6a706567. If all of that is the problem, you can still use the tantalum one and I’ll send you the correct polarity - just let me know.